Okhre Natur Cava: a bold buy for M&S

I suspect I see the hand of former Marks & Spencer buyer Jo Ahearne (now at Harrods) in this wine which is far from the M & S norm. I saw her moseying around at the Natural Wine Fair last year so she obviously has an interest in this type of wine.

It's an organic Cava from Celler Josep Pinyol and is sourced - and I quote from the tasting booklet - "from organic vines grown in soils with high chalk content, located at a minimum altitude of 500 metres in the municipality of Sant Sadurni d'Anoia, southwest of Barcelona."

It's actually really attractive but is a long way from what most people would expect from Cava. It's far more fruity (apple and peach predominate) and without that pronounced harsh yeasty character of cheaper cavas. It's also very* dry (the wine is described as brut nature and the dosage is only 3g). It would make immensely refreshing summer drinking but I can also imagine the average M & S customer thinking 'well I might as well drink cider'.

At £9.99 it'll be interesting to see how it goes. It's only available in 67 stores so they're obviously being cautious about the distribution. Look out for M & S's periodical 25% off offers if you buy six wines which would bring it down to a very attractive £7.49.

Rating: AMBER (see side panel, right)

* I originally said 'quite dry' but as Luc Charlier, below has pointed out I should more accurately have described it as very dry.

PS I know I said I was going to continue addressing the subject of soupy reds in my next post but I'm still collecting my thoughts . . .

Domaine de Vougeraie Fête de Famille 2002

In return for our Genesis syrah our friends cracked open a bottle of Domaine de Vougeraie's Fête de Famille 2002 an exceptional crémant de Bourgogne (at an eyewatering price - £51.05 a bottle)

It was really interesting - much richer, fuller and more savoury than champagne. More of a food wine - I could have imagined it with veal or even a roast chicken.

The estate is registered organic and in conversion to biodynamic viticulture.

There was a sneaky little Dom Perignon-style shield on the label which I suppose should encourage you to feel it's a bit of a bargain but I don't think it's really worth that kind of money. Cheaper than their basic Burgundy though if that's any consolation . . .